Lexan ZCTP's for the Ryobi BT3000 and BT3100
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This page was updated on July 29, 2003 and contains info on cutting and installing hardware on my New (July 2003) Lexan ZCTP's. These can be used on the Ryobi BT3000 or on the new Ryobi BT3100 Table Saws and also on the Craftsman version. These ZCTPs are made out of polycarbonate, an extremely tough and durable clear thermal plastic sometimes called "Lexan." "Lexan" is actually a trademark name of General Electric.
If you are interested in purchasing a ZCTP kit from me, click here for details.
These pics show the actual hardware threading order, clip orientation and spacing between the clip and the rabbet cut in the plate.
This hardware is 10-24 thread stainless steel with the exception of the clip and spacer and star washer. These screws are 1 1/4" long. Remove the paper film from the ZCTP. Next you cut the 3 plastic spacers at 7/16". These spacers are merely hard plastic tubing that fit snuggly around a 10/24 screw. Cut these with a sharp knife.
Next put the screws into the 3 holes in the plate. Then put a flat washer, slip the plastic spacer on, then another flat washer, the little mirror clip, star washer and locknut.
The next thing is to test fit the plate. If you followed the diagram above, your plate should fit nearly perfect. Just simply compress the plastic spacer or back the nut off on it to get yor clips to fit just right. Not tight. They only need to touch the bottom of the ledges on the table. It will look like this pic without the slot of course. Also remember to remove the splitter if you have the shorty type installed. Don't ask me how I know this.
These pics are of a sacrificial fence that you clamp on the SMT fence. I would suggest using a standard 2" x 4" clamped on edge.This is a MUST DO!!! This prevents any deflection when cutting through the plate. Use this method when cutting any type of plate. Standard, beveled or dado. You will want to wear Eye protection and possibly a long sleeved shirt when making these cuts. The little lexan bits can hurt or burn a bit.
When you are making the regular ZCTP, you want to make sure that the blade
is not in contact with the plate initially. Some will actually touch and some won't. It can
burn up the belts if the blade is binding on the plate. You can check this by slipping a thin strip of wood between the top of the left panel on the saw and the main table top. If the blade is touching the plate, just use a 7 1/4" circular saw blade to
just start the cut a little way, then switch back to the 10" and finish up
the cut. Make this cut by slowly raising the blade through the lexan. Ignore the snowing effect. Pay attention to what you're doing. You can cry about the mess later. Raise the blade completely for this type of ZCTP as shown in the pic above.
Now you can make the cut for the splitter. Put tape the sole of the jisaw to make the cut painless and scratchless.
I use a scroll saw or jigsaw at slow speed to cut the slot for the splitter.
You can finish this cut on the BT too, if you know how to do a plunge cut. If you don't then I won't explain it, because I won't recommend it. I have done it and it does work well, though.
Another method is just a regular hand saw.
I finish this cut by using sandpaper. It really isn't necessary to get this area perfect. As long as the slot is wide enough for the splitter. A little wider won't be detrimental to the zero clearance. The actual zero clearance is really only needed in the front section of the blade slot. I don't cut all the way through at the back where the rear
rabbet cut is. This helps to keep the plate more rigid.
Depending on the thickness of your jigsaw blade you may have to make 2 cuts.
When you have it close, just fold over some sandpaper and sand the slot to
fit your splitter.
When you are using this ZCTP and using all of the standard blade guard, you either have to cut through the rear of the plate or attach your splitter by using a ratchet and extension. This would be the suggested method. With the blade guard removed and the nuts loose for the splitter mount and the saw raised fully, attach the ZCTP. Then slip the blade guard down through the splitter slot and into its mounts. Then to tighten the nuts, you use this ratchet with an extension and slip it through the left cover or shroud of the saw cabinet. You may need to slip a little wedge in there to hold the gap open for the socket.
The clip placement is the result of a lot of trial and error on my part. This design can be used for any ZCTP that you wish to make. Normal, beveled, or dado. The clips won't interfere.
If you are making a ZCTP for a dado blade, I suggest the same sacrificial 2x4 over the center of the blade. Also keep in mind that a normal dado is no deeper than about 3/8" to 3/4". Cut these just a little deeper than the depth you normally make your dados. This will aid in dust collection and keep the chippers from rubbing the throat plate constantly.
If you are making a beveled ZCTP, then you will need to use a smaller blade to start with. You can use a 7 1/4" circular saw blade or an outside blade of a dado stack set. Start it with this and finish up with the 10" blade.
I feel that I must say this to keep my rear covered. Use these additions at your own risk. I personally see less risk of injury with this setup than the OEM stuff. Do NOT take my word for it.
Good luck and I hope you like them as much as I do.
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