This jig will do box joints on stock 13" wide. If
you would like to make bigger ones, you only need to extend the length
of the carriage, back, and threaded rod. For example, you want to have
a 16" box joint capability, make the carriage 16" and the back
35". The threaded rod would then be about 42" or so. |
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This is the hardware needed to build this jig. You will
need:
- 3/8" 16 Acorn nuts - 2
- 3/8" 16 Hex nuts - 6
- 3/8" 16 x 36" Threaded rod
- 3/8" 16 Tee nuts - 3
- 3/8" Washers - 3
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I used 1/4" carriage bolt, nuts, washers
and a golf ball for the knob. You can use any kind of knob that you
wish. Smaller than a bowling
ball is suggested. |
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This part is a brace that gets screwed on the back of the
carriage. This will help if your threaded rod isn't exactly straight.
It will keep the carrige in line with the back of the jig. |
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The handle is a bit different than Lynn's. Again this
was just my choice. I felt that a handle was better than a knob because
it was just easier to keep track of the turns. |
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| I made the two ends( B and G ) 3/4" longer to give
the jig a little more footing. The extra 3/4" sticks out behind
the jig. |
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I made parts C and E identical beause I added a clamp
to the front side of the carriage for holding the stock. The screws in
the carriage should be at least an inch up from the bottom of the jig
because your blade will be cutting through the bottom of the carriage. |
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D is the back of the carriage. |
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F is the back of the jig. |
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| H is the 3/8" -16 threaded rod |
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carriage clamp holds the stock firmly in place in the carriage and allows
the stock to move with the carriage freely. The diagram shows locations for 4 bolts. Two bolts is sufficient to hold the stock in place. The main reason the I use this clamp is that I always cut the 4 sides of the box at once. Then I flip end for end and flip again to make the second set of cuts. This lets yu cut the joints for the entire box with just 2 passes on the Lynn's Jig. Below is the lock nut detail that is used on the handle side of the jig. You don't actually tighten the nuts on the side, but just snug fit and jamb the second nut on each side against the first to keep them from moving.
This effectively holds the threaded rod in position while turning and allows the carriage to move back and forth on the rod when it is being turned.
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